I can walk 1000 miles …

Can I walk 1000 miles in a year?

…  But I would walk 500 miles
And I would walk 500 more
Just to be that (wo)man who walked 1000 miles
Just to fall down achey and sore …



Ok, enough of the song butchery and apologies to The Proclaimers, but seriously … could I walk 1000 miles?


I used to get out walking every weekend. Sometimes on both days. I’d spend a lot of my holidays walking too. 1000 miles over the course of a year was easily achievable. But over the last few years, life has got in the way and my walking has got less and less. Now I rarely walk at the weekend and I’ve been doing less of it in my holidays (apart from my long walk in the Arctic last summer, that is).


When I walked regularly I really noticed the benefits. As well as being a generally enjoyable activity, I was fitter, less stressed and felt like I had more energy. I also felt more in tune with the time of year as I noticed the subtle changes as the seasons morphed from one to the next. It didn’t matter whether I walked alone or with others, each had its additional benefits. Walking alone gave me time to think; walking with a friend or two gave me time for chit-chat and enabled us to catch up with each other’s lives; walking in a group was sociable with lots of light-hearted banter. I miss all of this and really want to get this important part of my life back.


Last year Country Walking magazine challenged readers to walk 1000 miles over the course of the year. To ensure this wasn’t too easy a challenge it could only include proper walks and not strolls up and down the aisles of Tesco. It doesn’t have  to be done in one epic hike but can be walks fitted in at lunchtimes and at weekends. I had too much going on at the beginning of last year to even think about taking on something like this, but as a strong believer in the philosophy of ‘better late than never’, I’m going to challenge myself to do it this year.


For it to be a proper challenge, I need a few rules. Here are the ones I’ve come up with so far. I may need to adapt them or add to them as I go along.


1) I will include walks of 2 miles and above so long as it’s a continuous walk and not 2 miles over the course of a whole day, in which I’m stopping and starting all the time. To monitor this I will set the time limit of 2 hours for a 2 mile walk. This may seem like a long time, but it will allow for walks in which I walk a mile to get to somewhere interesting, spend some time exploring and then walk a mile back. For walks over 6 miles I won’t set a time limit so long as it is completed within the same day.


2) No bonus points for hills or tricky terrain. Clocking up the miles is the only thing that counts.


3) City walks can be included as long as they are proper walks such as circumambulating the city walls, taking part in a guided walk or following a themed trail (e.g. a Dickens’ trail in London).Wandering round the shops does not count.
 
4) Pounding the treadmill in the gym doesn’t count.


And, well, that’s it really. Simple.


1000 miles shouldn’t be difficult to achieve physically. My problems are usually with time, but having a goal to aim for will hopefully make me prioritise walking and give me some extra incentive.


Here are some maths:


1000 / 52  = 19.2 miles per week
1000 / 12 = 83.3 miles per month


On an average weekend I should be able to walk on at least one day. If I do a 10 mile walk that leaves another 9.2 miles to be walked during the week. I could try to walk 2 miles each day, or try two mid-week 5 mile walks. Of course there will be weeks when I can’t do this, but as long as I achieve it most weeks, then the slack can be taken up on holidays when I’m more likely to walk every day.


I’ll set up a spreadsheet to note down each walk and for extra incentive I’ll include a countdown column.


I’m going to make a good start by kicking off the new year with a walk on New Year’s Day. Better stop messing about on my computer and get those maps out and start plotting and planning.


You can find the link to the original challenge here.





SkyView – Seeing Stockholm from Above

Ascending the exterior of the world’s largest spherical building to get a last look at Stockholm.

I’d crammed every minute of the last four days with touristy activities and I’d loved every one of those minutes.

So I didn’t see why I should stop just because it was my final evening and I needed to collect my bags and head to the airport.

I could fit one last thing in surely? Well, one last thing before the very last thing which was to sleep in a hostel on a plane.

I took the subway to the appropriately named Globen. There is a globe at Globen and as I alighted from the train I could see it peeping above the buildings.

Globen

The Globe is a concert arena that just happens to be the world’s largest spherical building. It is also part of the ‘Sweden Solar System’ which is a scale model of the solar system runing the length of Sweden at a scale of 1/20million. Being the biggest sphere, the Globe represents the sun.

I wasn’t going to merely look at it however, or even attend a concert inside. I was going to stand on the very top and admire the view.

Globen

As intrepid as climbing up the exterior of the world’s largest sphere and standing on top of the sun might sound, I have to ‘fess up. There are a couple of gondolas that go up and down the outside all day and this was how I was getting to the top.

GlobenI’d bought a 3 day Stockholm Pass which had been really good value as it had covered the cost of my last three days sightseeing and my public transport. The SkyView gondolas are included in the Pass and wanting to well and truly get my money’s worth was another reason for squeezing this last activity into my itinerary.

I queued up to get a timed-ticket. Even though it was early evening it was still quite busy and I had to wait about 20 minutes.

GlobenGloben

The two gondolas are also spherical and as they are made mostly from glass give a good all round view. They are constantly going up and down, passing each at the midway point.

Globen Globen GlobenGlobenFrom the ground to the top of the Globe, 130m above, the journey takes about 10 minutes. Overall, the experience lasts about 20 minutes.

Globen Globen

The gondola perches on the very top of the Globe for a few minutes before beginning its descent.

GlobenThe views over Stockholm were great. I don’t think Stockholm is the prettiest city I’ve seen from above, but it was still lovely to see.

Globen GlobenAnd I loved the feeling the feeling of being on top of world. Sorry, I mean on top of the sun!

Stockholm’s Stunning Subway

Stockholm’s metro system hosts the world’s longest art gallery.

One of my surprise finds in Stockholm was the subway. I knew there was a subway and I knew it was supposed to be quite simple to use. What I didn’t know was that the subway system is also a massive art gallery.

Tunnelbana art

Out of 100 stations, ninety are highly decorated with a range of sculptures, mosaics, paintings and engravings created by over 150 artists. As the subway stretches over 110km, it claims to be the world’s longest art gallery.

Tunnelbana artI shouldn’t have been surprised as it’s no secret.

This Stockholm website even has a page dedicated to it and advises the best stations to visit. I really don’t know how I missed finding out about it, but I guess it had something to do with me focussing all my research on the Kungsleden and not thinking too much about what I’d do after I’d finished walking.

Tunnelbana art Tunnelbana art

The good thing about not knowing anything about it in advance was that I got to be surprised when I found myself in my first decorated station. I wandered round taking photos before getting on the train and finding another decorated station when I alighted.

Tunnelbana artArt in the stations began in the 1950s as a way of making culture accessible to all. Throughout the intervening decades more art has been added with the art from each decade encapsulating the hopes and fears of the time.

Tunnelbana art Tunnelbana art

The 1950s and ’60s were a time of new prosperity after the Second World War, but were also the era of the Cold War. Both are reflected in the art.

Tunnelbana art

As time progresses the art reflects the women’s rights movement of the 1970s, the individualism of the 1980s and the environmental concerns of more recent times.

Tunnelbana art Tunnelbana artI didn’t get to visit many stations, but next time I’m in Stockhom I’m going to work out a route so I get to see as many as possible.

Tunnelbana art

 

Update: The Guardian has featured the art in the Tunnelbana and has a good write-up.

Stockholm From the Water

A boat trip was the perfect chance to sit down for an hour.

Stockholm is a watery city. Built on the edge of the Baltic coastline, the city is the gateway to an archipelago of 30,000 islands and skerries.

Stockholm from the water

I didn’t have time to explore the outer reaches of the island area, but I couldn’t leave without spending at least some time on the water.

Stockholm from the water

Stockholm from the waterThe 3 day Stockholm Pass I’d bought had a scenic boat tour included and so early(ish) on my last morning I was standing in line for the first trip of the day.

Stockholm from the waterHaving spent the last three days racing around trying to do as much as possible, I was quite tired and was looking forward to starting my last day chilling out on a boat for an hour or so.

Stockholm from the waterStockholm from the waterIt was another lovely morning and would have been nice to sit out on deck, but the only seating was inside. I suppose this is practical for most of the year, but it was a shame that it couldn’t be opened up on such a nice day.

Stockholm tour boat

Having to take pics through the windows also meant that most of my photos have refections in them.

Stockholm from the water

Stockholm from the waterThe tour itself was worth doing despite the lack of fresh air and dodgy photos. The boat was comfortable and each seat came with a multi-lingual headset, so I was able to hear the commentary in English.

Stockholm from the water

Stockholm from the waterWe saw lots, including some places I recognised – Skansen and Vasa for example – and were given lots of information. Being tired and ready to relax a bit, I focussed more on what I was seeing than listening to the spiel.

Vasa from the water
Hey, I know that place! That’s Vasa.

I’ve put pics on here without much info because, well, I don’t really remember what I was looking at or where it was.

Stockholm from the water

Stockholm from the waterIt was a good way to start the morning though and by the time the tour was over, I’d woken up enough to race around making the most of my last day.

Stockholm from the water
I couldn’t not take a photo of this great big Viking ship.
Stockholm from the water
And this crane disguised as a giraffe was just too funny to miss.

 

A Night in Prison

Accommodation with a difference

I love having the chance to stay in unusual places. So when I found out the hostel in Falun was actually in an old prison, I had to go there.

I arrived in Falun in the Dalarna region of middle Sweden in the late afternoon. The bus stopped in the town centre by the river. The hostel was on the edge of town up a big hill. I trudged up with my heavy pack, but decided it was worth it once I got there. The prisoners had had the best views in town!

The imposing building was built in the 1840s and only ceased operating as a prison in 1995. Five years later it was opened as a hostel.

Falun prison hostel

I was staying in a cell for two, which I was lucky enough to have to myself. It really would have been cramped with two people sharing. The window was barred and the cell door was heavy. The  bunks were hard with no mattresses. I wondered if this was part of the ‘prison’ experience, though the photos on the website did show the beds with mattresses. By the time I’d sorted myself out and got back downstairs the reception had closed and so I had to wait until the following morning to find out that yes, I should have had a mattress. Fortunately I had my Therm-a-Rest and so had a more comfortable night than I otherwise would’ve done.

Falun prison hostel Falun prison hostel

The hostel layout hadn’t been changed since its prison days, though I’m sure it’s much nicer now.

The wide corridors on each floor have a mix of comfy chairs and sofas providing lots of smaller communal areas rather than one big common room.

Falun prison hostel Falun prison hostel Falun prison hostel

Each floor has a shared bathroom and kitchen. I’m sure the kitchens were nothing like this in the building’s prison days. There was even a nice coffee machine.

Falun prison hostel Falun prison hostel

On the ground floor there is the reception, more communal areas and a cafe/restaurant, though it wasn’t open when I was there. The walls are covered in old photos of the town and lots of memorabilia.

Falun prison hostel Falun prison hostel Falun prison hostel Falun prison hostel

The hostel also has a prison museum in the basement and a couple of cells on the accommodation floor decked out as they would have been back in the day.

Falun prison hostel
He got a mattress and an en suite. Standards have dropped!

Falun prison hostel

The museum smelt and felt damp and musty. It was dingy and crammed with stuff. All of which just added to the atmosphere.

Falun prison hostel
Food bowls built into the heavy iron doors

Museum in Falun prison hostel Museum in Falun prison hostel Museum in Falun prison

I stayed two nights in the prison and found Falun a really interesting town to explore. As well as the prison, there’s the museum with a replica of writer Selma Lagerlöf’s study. Her house had been on the street where the prison is, but I wasn’t able to find it. I think it’s been demolished which is a shame.

There’s also the huge mine, the river and an old town with traditional red painted houses.

Falun old town

And it’s only a bus ride away from Sundborn where Carl Larsson’s home – my original reason for wanting to come to Falun – can be found.

The website for Falun prison hostel can be found here.

Selma Lagerlöf in Falun

Following in the tracks of Selma Lagerlöf.

Selma Lagerlöf is one of Sweden’s classic authors. She lived from 1858 to 1940 and worked as a teacher until the Swedish royal family persuaded her to give up teaching and supported her financially so she could develop her writing career. (Note to self: write to Queen and ask her to support me to give up teaching so I can write full-time).

Selma Lagerlöf
Portrait of Selma Lagerlöf in the Dalarnas Museum

Although she’d been writing since childhood, she wasn’t published until 1890. Once published there was no stopping her and it was only five years later that the royals began supporting her along with the Swedish Academy.

Selma Lagerlöf
Sculpture of Selma Lagerlöf outside the Dalarnas Museum

She travelled and some of her novels are set in the places she visited such as Italy and Jerusalem. In 1909 she became the first woman to win the Nobel Prize for Literature.

I first came across her when I was researching my trip to Sweden and looking for books to read by Swedish authors who write outside of the Nordic-Noir genre (of which I’d already devoured massively).

The Wonderful Adventures of Nils, published in 1906, tells the story of a young boy who misbehaves and is rather nasty. He is shrunk by a passing elf and ends up on the back of his famly’s white goose just as it decides to join a flock of passing wild geese and migrate to the far north of Sweden.

Selma Lagerlöf on 20 Kronor banknote
Selma Lagerlöf is featured on one side of the 20 kronor note. Nils riding his white goose is on the reverse.

The book is all about the adventures he has travelling the length and breadth of Sweden with the geese.

Lagerlöf was commissioned to write the book by the National Teachers’ Association and it was intended as a geography reader for schools. She spent three years researching wildlife, geography and folklore before eventually publishing the book in 1906.

Although the book was intended for children, its remit made it a useful resource for me. I learnt a lot from it, as well as enjoying the story and her style of writing. It was in this book that I first heard of Skansen, a place I made sure I visited and spent a wonderful day at when I was in Stockholm.

Dalarnas museum
Dalarnas Museum in Falun
Dalarnas museum
Dalarnas Museum from across the river

Selma moved to Falun in the Dalarna region of central Sweden in 1897. Consequently, the Dalarnas Museum in Falun has a permanent exhibition on her and her work, including a replica of her study.

Selma Lagerlöf's study Selma Lagerlöf's study Selma Lagerlöf's study Selma Lagerlöf's study Selma Lagerlöf's study Selma Lagerlöf's studyHow wonderful is this study? I want one just like it.

She lived on the hill overlooking the town on what just happened to be the street where the prison I was staying in was. I tried to find her house, but as far as I can make out it no longer exists. Which is probably why her study is in the museum.

As well as the exhibition on Selma Lagerlöf, the museum gave an interesting overview on the culture of the region.

paintings, Dalarnas museum paintings, Dalarnas museum paintings, Dalarnas museumpainting of mine, Dalarnas museumPaintings pictured different aspects of the culture and daily life. There were some great ones of the mine in Falun.

local costume, Dalarnas museum local costume, Dalarnas museum

The local traditional costume is so colourful and detailed.

painting Dalarnas horses, Dalarnas museum Dalarnas horses, Dalarnas museumDala horses are iconic images of this region. They have been made and sold since the 17th century. Even today the genuine articles are still hand-carved and hand-painted in the traditional colours.

paintings, Dalarnas museumThe horses are decorated in a folk art style known as kurbits. This style was used on material, walls, crockery … just about everything that could be painted or printed really.

But back to Selma … the more I learn about her, the more I think I have in common with her. I made a list:

  • We’re both teachers
  • We both like writing
  • We’re both interested in the culture, folk tales, geography and wildlife of Sweden
  • We’ve both been to Italy and Jerusalem
  • We’ve stayed on the same street in Falun

So to continue following in her tracks, I just need to:

  • Get the Queen to give me money
  • Get my picture on the £20 note
  • Win the Nobel Prize for Literature

Don’t mock! It could happen!

Riksdag – The Swedish Parliament

Touring the old and the new at the Parliament building in Stockholm

I’d really wanted to see the Danish Parliament in Copenhagen. Who wouldn’t after watching Borgen every Saturday night on TV? But when I got there ready for the once-weekly tour in English, the times had changed and I’d missed it by an hour.

So when I just happened to pass by the Swedish Parliament and they just happened to have an English language tour about to start and it just happened to be free, of course I had to tag along. I mean, you never know do you? They might decide to make a Swedish version of Borgen and then I’d be kicking myself for not taking an opportunity that had been chucked right in front of me.

Swedish parliament

There was airport style security to get through to enter the building and lockers which all  bags had to be put into. Cameras were fine to carry around though and photographs were allowed.

We piled into the lift and the guide led us to the new building which is literally on top of the old building.

Swedish parliament
The new glass building sitting atop the old building

There were great views from long curving glass wall.

Swedish parliamentView from Swedish parliament

The Prime Minister’s residence was pointed out. It sits across the water from the Parliament building on an ordinary street. Anyone can walk up to his front door. No fences, no barricades. The complete opposite to Downing Street.

Prime Minister's residence
The PM lives in the white house in the middle

We sat in the galleries overlooking the main area where the 349 MPs sit when Parliament is in session whilst the guide explained about the make-up of Parliament and how voting happens.

Swedish parliamentAt the time of the tour there were almost as many female as male MPs, though this has dropped somewhat since September’s general election.

The system of voting means there is always a coalition in government. Currently the PM is a Social Democrat and his party is in coalition with the Moderate Party and the Sweden Democrats.

There seem to be an awful of parties, but many of them didn’t get any seats. I love that there is a Pirate Party of Sweden even though they didn’t get any seats. I wondered if they imagined themselves as a modern day version of the Vikings, but it seems more that they are standing for increased privacy laws and changes in copyright legislation. Not things Vikings would’ve been too bothered about.

Swedish parliamentLeaving the modern building we headed downstairs to the older parts of the building. This was very different in style.

Swedish parliament Swedish parliament

We saw various meeting and committee rooms and were given a lot more information. The tour lasted about an hour an half and was well worth doing. Even if it wasn’t Borgen.

 

A Stroll around Gamla Stan

Gamla Stan is one of the best preserved medieval city centres in Europe

It was hot.

I’d expected to find Sweden a bit on the chilly side. I’d packed thermal underwear and a winter sleeping bag. Instead I’d arrived in the middle of a tropical heatwave and found temperatures soaring. News reports were gleefully informing people that parts of Sweden were hotter than Bangkok and Istanbul.

Fortunately I’d also packed sunscreen and sandals.

I left the hostel and caught the subway to Gamla Stan, the old part of Stockholm. My plan was just to wander round and get a feel for the place before I caught the Arctic Circle Express train that evening.

But it was so HOT.

I wandered round colourful narrow streets dating back to the founding of Stockholm in 1252, watched buskers and window shopped.

Gamla Stan Gamla Stan Gamla Stan Gamla Stan Gamla StanGamla StanEveryone seemed in a jolly mood and the ice cream shops were doing a roaring trade.

winter wear in Gamla Stan shop window
This shop wasn’t very busy though

During my wanderings I stumbled across a lovely old church.

St Gertrude's German ChurchSt Gertrude’s is known as the German Church because of the number of Germans who lived in this area during the Middle Ages. As St Gertrude is patron saint to travellers and cats I decided I liked her.

And I really liked the cool interior of her church.

St Gertrude's church St Gertrude's church St Gertrude's church St Gertrude's church St Gertrude's churchOutside the church was a small cafe, shaded by trees. I sat for a while with a coffee. It was so peaceful and even the temperature felt quite pleasant.

cafe at St Gertrude's churchFeeling rejuvenated, I headed back into the tourist melee that is Gamla Stan, for a last look around before heading back to the hostel to collect my backpack and catch the train to the Arctic. Surely it would be cooler up there?

The Blue Tower – home of August Strindberg

A chance to nosey around the old home of one of Sweden’s most loved writers.

I didn’t know much about August Strindberg – I’d seen one of his plays, Miss Julie, performed last year – but that was about all I knew. So I can’t say I was going to visit his old apartment because I’m a big fan. The real reason was because I’m nosey and love seeing how other people live.

Over the years, August Strindberg occupied 24 homes in Stockholm. He moved into the Blue Tower shortly after it was built and stayed for four years. Even though he didn’t stay long, this is the home he’s probably most associated with as it’s the only one open to the public.

The Blue Tower
The Blue Tower isn’t blue.

As a new-build, the apartment was full of mod-cons like a toilet and central heating. He didn’t have a kitchen, but his building did have a lift.

Lift in the Blue Tower

The original lift is still there and taking it is quite an experience. There are no automatic doors here. The passenger (is that what you call someone who takes a lift?) is responsible for sliding and locking into position the doors and gates. The dark wood panelling, pull down seat and gold mesh made me feel as though I was a character in an old film.

Lift in the Blue Tower Lift in the Blue Tower Lift in the Blue Tower

The rooms of his apartment are pretty much as they were in his day with most of the furniture having been his own.

Strindberg's apartment
A mask of Beethoven, his favourite composer, hangs over the piano
Strindberg's apartment
The rooms were similar in style to the sets in his plays
Strindberg's apartment
Strindberg called the wicker furniture ‘Lagerlunden’ (The Laurel Grove) after a cafe popular with writers and actors
Strindberg's apartment
I alway like a nice coffee pot

As the apartment had no kitchen he either ate out or had food delivered.

My favourite room was his study. If I love noseying around people’s homes, I love even more seeing their desks. Unfortunately, this was the only part of the apartment behind glass. I still got a good look though.

IMG_8559
His desk is laid out as it was when he died

Even though electricity was included amongst the mod cons in the apartment, Strinberg didn’t use electric lighting. His lamps were powered by kerosene and he was partial to candlesticks in the shape of naked female bodies.

He used the highest quality writing implements – his pen nibs were made from British steel, his ink was French and his paper hand-made.

As well as writing plays and novels, he was interested in science, astronomy, occultism, painting and photography.

The apartment adjoining his also forms part of the museum and this is set up like a ‘real’ museum with lots of artefacts and pictures and plenty of information about his life and work.

The street outside his apartment looked worth exploring too, but I had other places to be. I think this is an area well worth coming back to though.

Street outside Strindberg's apartment Street outside Strindberg's apartment

The Mysterious Death of Olof Palme

A simple stone marks the grave of Sweden’s assassinated Prime Minister.

Olof Palme was the Swedish Prime Minister. He was known for his refusal to align with the superpowers and his support of many third-world liberation movements. Between his stints at being PM he’d served as a special mediator for the UN in the war between Iran and Iraq. He was the first Western head of government to visit Cuba after its revolution.

It wasn’t all good though, as he was criticised for his support of third world leaders with horrendous records of human rights abuse.

At home, he was a supporter of women’s rights, free university education, a good standard of free healthcare for all, unemployment benefits, workers’ rights … basically lots of things that made him very popular.

Hence, security was never seen as a big necessity and when he was ‘off-duty’ if was often non-existent.

On 28th February 1986, he was walking home from the cinema with his wife. It was late, close to midnight, and he and his wife were alone.

He was shot in the back at close range by an attacker who then fired at his wife. His wife wasn’t seriously hurt and survived the attack. The PM was rushed to hospital (a taxi driver used his radio to raise the alarm), but was pronounced dead shortly after his arrival.

Sweden went into shock. This was the sort of thing that happened in America, not in safe Sweden. Of course there was a big police investigation, but it was two years before anyone was arrested and convicted. The assassin was a small-time thief and junkie with a previous record of manslaughter.

Within a year however, Christer Pettersson was freed at appeal as it was decided there hadn’t been enough evidence (and what there was was too dubious) to have convicted him in the first place.

Since then conspiracy theorists have had a field day. Owing to Palme’s criticism of the US (in Vietnam for example) and apartheid era South Africa, both the CIA and the South African security forces have been accused of being involved in his death.

The national obsession with his murder is still strong nearly thirty years later. Only recently a Swedish national newspaper was given access to 15 boxes of files belonging to the late Stieg Larsson (author of The Girl with the Dragon Tattoo) who had conducted his own investigation into the assassination.

Over the years, in addition to the CIA and the South Africans, suspects have included the Yugoslavian security forces, Swedish security forces, right-wing Swedish groups and the Kurdish separatist PKK movement.

Many people have confessed to the murder (around 130), but these confessions have been discounted. Alibis for suspects have been withdrawn, others have been given. But with no new hard evidence it seems the identity and motivation of Palme’s killer is going to remain a mystery.

As I was in Stockholm and I’d read a bit about this case and found it quite intriguing, I decided to visit the church where he was buried.

Adolf Fredrik church
Adolf Fredrik Church

Adolf Fredrik Church is beautiful. It was built in the 18th century to replace an earlier wooden church. Palme is not the only person of note to have been buried there. Theologian René Descartes’ remains were originally interred here, but were later removed to France.

Adolf Fredrik ChurchAdolf Fredrik Church Adolf Fredrik Church

Adolf Fredrik Church Adolf Fredrik Church Adolf Fredrik Church Adolf Fredrik Church Adolf Fredrik ChurchThere was a monument inside the church dedicated to René Descartes.

Descartes memorialAnd also one dedicated to Sven Hedin; explorer, geographer and map-maker extraordinaire. He travelled extensively in Central Asia during the 1800s becoming an expert on Tibet, mapping the Great Wall of China, uncovering buried Buddhist cities in China and publishing the first atlas on Central Asia.

Sven Hedin memorialLeaving the interior of the church, I wandered around the surrounding gardens and graveyard and found what I’d come to see.

Olof Palme's grave markerThe simple stone memorial with his signature carved into it was so much nicer than a big elaborate monument would have been.

Most of the pictures I’ve seen since have shown flowers laid at its base, but the day I was there, there were none. Just the simple memorial with a young tree growing alongside.