A Night in Prison

Accommodation with a difference

I love having the chance to stay in unusual places. So when I found out the hostel in Falun was actually in an old prison, I had to go there.

I arrived in Falun in the Dalarna region of middle Sweden in the late afternoon. The bus stopped in the town centre by the river. The hostel was on the edge of town up a big hill. I trudged up with my heavy pack, but decided it was worth it once I got there. The prisoners had had the best views in town!

The imposing building was built in the 1840s and only ceased operating as a prison in 1995. Five years later it was opened as a hostel.

Falun prison hostel

I was staying in a cell for two, which I was lucky enough to have to myself. It really would have been cramped with two people sharing. The window was barred and the cell door was heavy. The  bunks were hard with no mattresses. I wondered if this was part of the ‘prison’ experience, though the photos on the website did show the beds with mattresses. By the time I’d sorted myself out and got back downstairs the reception had closed and so I had to wait until the following morning to find out that yes, I should have had a mattress. Fortunately I had my Therm-a-Rest and so had a more comfortable night than I otherwise would’ve done.

Falun prison hostel Falun prison hostel

The hostel layout hadn’t been changed since its prison days, though I’m sure it’s much nicer now.

The wide corridors on each floor have a mix of comfy chairs and sofas providing lots of smaller communal areas rather than one big common room.

Falun prison hostel Falun prison hostel Falun prison hostel

Each floor has a shared bathroom and kitchen. I’m sure the kitchens were nothing like this in the building’s prison days. There was even a nice coffee machine.

Falun prison hostel Falun prison hostel

On the ground floor there is the reception, more communal areas and a cafe/restaurant, though it wasn’t open when I was there. The walls are covered in old photos of the town and lots of memorabilia.

Falun prison hostel Falun prison hostel Falun prison hostel Falun prison hostel

The hostel also has a prison museum in the basement and a couple of cells on the accommodation floor decked out as they would have been back in the day.

Falun prison hostel
He got a mattress and an en suite. Standards have dropped!

Falun prison hostel

The museum smelt and felt damp and musty. It was dingy and crammed with stuff. All of which just added to the atmosphere.

Falun prison hostel
Food bowls built into the heavy iron doors

Museum in Falun prison hostel Museum in Falun prison hostel Museum in Falun prison

I stayed two nights in the prison and found Falun a really interesting town to explore. As well as the prison, there’s the museum with a replica of writer Selma Lagerlöf’s study. Her house had been on the street where the prison is, but I wasn’t able to find it. I think it’s been demolished which is a shame.

There’s also the huge mine, the river and an old town with traditional red painted houses.

Falun old town

And it’s only a bus ride away from Sundborn where Carl Larsson’s home – my original reason for wanting to come to Falun – can be found.

The website for Falun prison hostel can be found here.

Selma Lagerlöf in Falun

Following in the tracks of Selma Lagerlöf.

Selma Lagerlöf is one of Sweden’s classic authors. She lived from 1858 to 1940 and worked as a teacher until the Swedish royal family persuaded her to give up teaching and supported her financially so she could develop her writing career. (Note to self: write to Queen and ask her to support me to give up teaching so I can write full-time).

Selma Lagerlöf
Portrait of Selma Lagerlöf in the Dalarnas Museum

Although she’d been writing since childhood, she wasn’t published until 1890. Once published there was no stopping her and it was only five years later that the royals began supporting her along with the Swedish Academy.

Selma Lagerlöf
Sculpture of Selma Lagerlöf outside the Dalarnas Museum

She travelled and some of her novels are set in the places she visited such as Italy and Jerusalem. In 1909 she became the first woman to win the Nobel Prize for Literature.

I first came across her when I was researching my trip to Sweden and looking for books to read by Swedish authors who write outside of the Nordic-Noir genre (of which I’d already devoured massively).

The Wonderful Adventures of Nils, published in 1906, tells the story of a young boy who misbehaves and is rather nasty. He is shrunk by a passing elf and ends up on the back of his famly’s white goose just as it decides to join a flock of passing wild geese and migrate to the far north of Sweden.

Selma Lagerlöf on 20 Kronor banknote
Selma Lagerlöf is featured on one side of the 20 kronor note. Nils riding his white goose is on the reverse.

The book is all about the adventures he has travelling the length and breadth of Sweden with the geese.

Lagerlöf was commissioned to write the book by the National Teachers’ Association and it was intended as a geography reader for schools. She spent three years researching wildlife, geography and folklore before eventually publishing the book in 1906.

Although the book was intended for children, its remit made it a useful resource for me. I learnt a lot from it, as well as enjoying the story and her style of writing. It was in this book that I first heard of Skansen, a place I made sure I visited and spent a wonderful day at when I was in Stockholm.

Dalarnas museum
Dalarnas Museum in Falun
Dalarnas museum
Dalarnas Museum from across the river

Selma moved to Falun in the Dalarna region of central Sweden in 1897. Consequently, the Dalarnas Museum in Falun has a permanent exhibition on her and her work, including a replica of her study.

Selma Lagerlöf's study Selma Lagerlöf's study Selma Lagerlöf's study Selma Lagerlöf's study Selma Lagerlöf's study Selma Lagerlöf's studyHow wonderful is this study? I want one just like it.

She lived on the hill overlooking the town on what just happened to be the street where the prison I was staying in was. I tried to find her house, but as far as I can make out it no longer exists. Which is probably why her study is in the museum.

As well as the exhibition on Selma Lagerlöf, the museum gave an interesting overview on the culture of the region.

paintings, Dalarnas museum paintings, Dalarnas museum paintings, Dalarnas museumpainting of mine, Dalarnas museumPaintings pictured different aspects of the culture and daily life. There were some great ones of the mine in Falun.

local costume, Dalarnas museum local costume, Dalarnas museum

The local traditional costume is so colourful and detailed.

painting Dalarnas horses, Dalarnas museum Dalarnas horses, Dalarnas museumDala horses are iconic images of this region. They have been made and sold since the 17th century. Even today the genuine articles are still hand-carved and hand-painted in the traditional colours.

paintings, Dalarnas museumThe horses are decorated in a folk art style known as kurbits. This style was used on material, walls, crockery … just about everything that could be painted or printed really.

But back to Selma … the more I learn about her, the more I think I have in common with her. I made a list:

  • We’re both teachers
  • We both like writing
  • We’re both interested in the culture, folk tales, geography and wildlife of Sweden
  • We’ve both been to Italy and Jerusalem
  • We’ve stayed on the same street in Falun

So to continue following in her tracks, I just need to:

  • Get the Queen to give me money
  • Get my picture on the £20 note
  • Win the Nobel Prize for Literature

Don’t mock! It could happen!