I was last in Paris back in the mid-80s when I was interrailing around Europe. I was on an extremely low budget and couldn’t afford to go up the Eiffel Tower; instead I stood underneath and gazed up through its iron girders.
When I found out I was going to be spending a couple of days in Paris at the end of December I toyed with the idea of finally ascending the Tower, but realised it was unlikely to happen unless I wanted to spend most of my time in Paris standing in a queue.
The first thing I did when I arrived was to check it out, wondering if perhaps the recent terror attacks had scared the queues away, but no, the line was still about half a day long.
I did get plenty of good views of it though, including the iconic view from the top of the Montparnasse Tower.
I’ve put together a Flickr album of my images and images of images of the Eiffel Tower. (No, I haven’t said images too many times there).
I’ve also decided I’m not going to leave it another 30 years before I go back to Paris and that next time I’ll book a time slot well in advance.
A boat trip along the Seine was the perfect start to a day in Paris.
Having spent a long time living in London, I’m now of the belief that a proper city has to have a river running through it.
A big river.
A river that can be called the lifeblood of the city.
As London has the Thames, so Paris has the Seine. Of course, I gravitated towards it.
I saw some very crowded tour boats chugging up and down, but it was later in the day and the tourists were out in force. The following morning I made sure I was up in time to get on the first trip of the day when it was much quieter. The light was nicer too.
The trip gave me a good overview, but now I’m thinking of how nice it would be to go back and do a long a walk along the banks and explore properly.
I really enjoy walking the Thames Path (even if, after 15 years, I’m still only about a third of way along it). I wonder if there’s a Seine Path?
I’ve put my photos into a Flickr album. Click on the photo below to access it.
I’d already booked my trip to Paris when the attacks happened. Of course I was asked if I was still intending to go (by people who don’t know me very well) and when I said ‘yes’, asked if I was scared (by people who know me even less well). Until people started asking, the idea of cancelling hadn’t even occurred to me.
Having lived in London through two IRA campaigns, lived on the Lebanese border of Israel during the first Intifada and lived in Kinshasa during the build-up to an attempted coup to oust Mobutu, I’m not easily railroaded onto the fear wagon.
There are two kinds of risk in life: foolhardy and calculated. Although Damascus has always been high on my wishlist of places to visit, I’m not planning any trips in the forseeable future. But Paris? Come on, really?
Here are my reasons for why I considered Paris to be the safest and best possible place to visit over the Christmas and New Year period.
As one of the largest cities in the EU and with a population of nearly two and a quarter million, the statistical chances of my being involved in a terrorist attack were miniscule.
Paris had already had ‘its’ attacks. If others were to happen they’d be far more likely to be elsewhere.
Because it was so soon after the attacks security would be really high making it much less likely for further attacks to succeed.
As so many people were cancelling the city would be much quieter than usual, meaning less queues and possibly reduced prices.
I don’t want to live a life governed by fear. I don’t want to let extremists (of any persuasion) dictate what I do and don’t do. I don’t want to add to the ‘success’ of their atrocities by adapting my life, particularly when it’s to the detriment of the city affected. The BBC reported that 7% of the French economy and two million jobs are reliant on the tourism industry, so the sharp drop in hotel bookings immediately after the attacks and the knock-on effects on shops, restaurants, taxis and tourist attractions, has a serious impact.
So how did I find things once I was actually in Paris?
The presence of armed soldiers on the streets was unusual for a European city. I don’t think I’ve seen this since Belfast during The Troubles. Even during the IRA campaigns in London I remember only occasionally seeing armed police on the streets and never soldiers.
I felt the soldiers were there more as a public reassurance measure than for any practical reason. Adding ‘friendly’ machine gun fire to any terrorist incident could increase the death toll rather than reduce it. And it would be unlikely to deter a suicide bomber from detonating their bomb, let alone prevent a car bomb from going off.
Many of the posher shops along the Champs Elysees had security guards outside who were carrying out bag searches and waving a security wand over customers before allowing them to enter. Again, I wasn’t sure how much of a preventative measure this was as anyone with a bomb or gun could just as easily started their attack outside the shop as inside.
The November attacks happened inside crowded stadiums and theatres. I can see how security checks outside these places may have prevented the attacks or at least scaled them down. But a shop on a busy street? Particulary a shop with a queue of sitting ducks lining up outside? Would it really make much difference if it happened inside or outside? I think not, but even so, it was still kind of reassuring to see.
As for my non-altruistic reason for visiting Paris at this time – less queues and lower prices – did I find a difference? Well, due to security checks some queues were longer than they previously would have been and the Eiffel Tower still had a queue that it was estimated would take about half a day to get to the front of. At other attractions however, less tourists did make it quicker and easier. As I wasn’t familiar with Parisian prices beforehand, and we’d already booked and paid for our hotel, I don’t actually know if it was any cheaper or not.
What I do know was that I enjoyed my time in Paris, felt completely safe and would happily return (though maybe when I’ve booked the Eiffel Tower well in advance).
I’ve never been up the Eiffel Tower. Many years ago when I interrailed around Europe my budget was so low all I could afford to do was to stand underneath it and gaze up through its iron girders.
Having a slightly higher budget this time round, I did consider ascending but thought the queues would put me off. As I was only going to be in Paris for a short time I didn’t want to spend half a day standing in a line.
As lots of tourists are reported to have cancelled trips to Paris since the November terrorist attacks, I did wonder if this would mean less queues than usual. On our first morning in Paris we headed straight for the Tower to find out. But no, the long snaking line still meant a wait of several hours. Not to worry, we had a Plan B.
The Montparnasse Tower is lesser known than its rival even though it has one huge advantage. The iconic view of Paris has to include the Eiffel Tower. When you are at the top of the Eiffel Tower you get a great view of Paris, but of course it’s missing that one thing that turns a great view into an iconic view.
We timed our trip to the top of the Montparnasse Tower for late afternoon / early evening so we could take in the view in daylight, watch the sun go down and then see night-time Paris lit up below us.
The tower is easy to get to – Montparnasse Bienvenue Metro Station is right outside. There was only a short queue to buy a ticket (another advantage over the Eiffel Tower) and then we passed through airport style security to get to the lifts.
The lifts are among the fastest in the world and, reaching speeds of 22kmph, zoomed us up to the 56th floor in 38 seconds.
The 56th floor consists of a shop, restaurant and indoor viewing gallery. We didn’t want to stay here though; we wanted to be at the very top. We climbed the stairs to reach the 59th floor roof terrace.
The roof terrace covers the entire roof and although there are glass walls around the sides, there are gaps which make it easier to get clear photographs.
I wandered from end to end and from side to side taking in the 360° view of Paris. The most popular side was, of course, the one with the view of the Eiffel Tower.
As the sun went down and the city’s lights began to sparkle the Eiffel Tower started to twinkle.
Once it’s fully dark the Eiffel Tower puts on a whole flashy, twinkly lightshow for a few minutes each hour.
We sat on comfy seats gazing at the view for a while longer before starting to feel the cold and heading back down to the 56th floor for a warming cup of hot chocolate.
A week spent driving on the wrong side of road has led me a long way towards completing this challenge.
A couple of weeks ago I went a long way (literally and metaphorically) to achieving this goal.
I’d been asked by a friend if I’d like to spend half term visiting her new caravan in the South of France. The catch was that I’d share the driving and help move the contents of her old caravan in Normandy to the new one in Serignan Plage. I jumped at the chance. Not only did I get a very cheap holiday and got to see some new places, I also got to work on one of my challenges.
Margaret picked me up at about 1.30am after a busy last day at school on the Friday. Who needs sleep? We spent the night driving down to Portsmouth for the early morning ferry. I took my first turn at driving her car and was pleased to be able to get used to it whilst there wasn’t much traffic about and whilst still driving on this side of the road.
We boarded the ferry and went straight to our cabin to get a few hours sleep. Once we landed 5 or 6 hours later in Caen we had to drive for another hour or two to get to our hotel near the campsite where the old caravan had been. We had time for a look around Granville before going for dinner and getting to bed.
Next morning, after the what must be the world’s nicest croissants and baguette for breakfast we went to the lock-up where her stuff was stored. Once we’d succeeded in the challenge of getting the door unlocked (hitting the lock with a stone eventually worked) it took us a few hours to load up the car and roof-rack.
Then it was a VERY long drive down to the south coast. We took turns in driving and I was surprised by how quickly I got into it. It was a Sunday so was fairly quiet and we were mainly on the motorway, so all I really had to do was point the car in the right direction and drive, but even so. By the time we arrived I was feeling quite happy with myself.
During the week and on my last day when we drove to Spain so I could fly home from Girona airport I had a few more goes at driving and this time experienced traffic lights, roundabouts, traffic jams, and so on. As my last challenge I made sure it was my turn to drive as we drove over the Pyrenees and across the border into Spain.
I haven’t quite decided whether to tick this challenge off as complete yet. I specifically want not just to have a go at driving on the wrong side of the road, but to be able to say I can do it confidently. Although I felt fine driving over the week I was in France, I’m not sure I would be as confident if I suddenly had to do it again in a year’s time. I think I’d need some time to get used to it again. Also, I haven’t driven alone yet, and it’s very different not having a second pair of eyes to look out for potential hazards. So at the moment I’m thinking of leaving this one as an ‘in progess’ rather than considering it completed.
I’ve got an opportunity to drive on the wrong side of the road.
Many years ago I did a road trip through France, Spain and Portugal with a campervan.* I loved the freedom of being able to go wherever we wanted and the ease of being able to stop and sleep whenever and wherever took our fancy. In recent years I’ve had similar experiences in the UK, first with my car and tent, and now with my van. I really want to be able to expand my trips to the continent but I have no experience of driving on ‘that’ side of the road and the thought of doing it for the first time on my own, without a second pair of eyes, is a little bit scary. I’m not so worried about going straight; it’s going round corners that’ll get me unstuck. I know from cycling experience how easy it is to nonchalantly turn a corner and automatically turn on to the British side of the road. And as for roundabouts … well, the less said about them the better. It took me long enough to learn how to do them here without having to do them back to front.
But sometimes opportunities just present themselves. I’ve said before that having a list makes ideas more concrete and although it doesn’t necessarily mean opportunities appear that wouldn’t have done without the list (that would be weird and new-agey) it does make the opportunities more noticeable and make me more likely to jump at them. Also it means other people may be aware of what I want to do and they may notice opportunities on my behalf.
Just before New Year I was contacted by a former colleague who said she needed someone with a van to drive her and a load of stuff down to her new caravan in France. At first I though ‘no’ because she was asking about the Easter holidays and I already have plans. But the idea had been planted and my mind kept involuntarily mulling it over. Although it didn’t seem too feasible I decided it would be worth looking into to see if I could fit a road trip to the South of France into my plans for my annual visit to Germany.
Too late. She’d already found someone else with a trailer to do the job for her. But she did mention the February half term and would I fancy a trip then? She would be driving herself and so I could tag along, have a few days there and then fly home whilst she remains there a bit longer. This would mean she’d have company for the journey down and the first part of her stay there. I told her I was interested and she’s just got back to me with flight prices (very reasonable) and asked if I’d mind sharing the driving. So if I go I’ll get to have my first driving experiences on the wrong side of the road! (Does she really know what she’s letting herself in for???)
This is much better than Easter too, as I’d been looking for something to do at half term and so far none of the ideas I’d had were working out. So if things go according to plan, it looks like I’ll soon be getting another challenge ticked off my list.
*I couldn’t drive when I did my campervan trip, so that time I was just the passenger.