The Swedish Museum of Architecture

Bedazzled by bikes at the architecture museum.

The Swedish Museum of Architecture is housed in what used to be the drill hall when the island of Skeppsholmen was a naval base. When the base was decommissioned the drill hall was originally turned into the Museum of Modern Art (Moderna Museet). It was in 1998 when the Museum of Modern Art got a new modern building that the old drill hall was handed over to the Museum of Architecture.

I’d spent most of the day looking at the amazing sculptures in Millesgården, the former home of sculptor Carl Milles, and then gone straight to late-night opening at the Moderna Museet. So I was feeling pretty tired, hungry and arted-out.

But as I still had an hour before closing time and a ticket that allowed me entry into the Museum of Architecture, which is right next door, I couldn’t resist popping in.

I was glad I did and ended up staying until closing time.

The main exhibition hall had an exibition on cycling and all things bike.

IMG_8256IMG_8257I particularly liked this bamboo bike.

bamboo bike
Bamboo bicycle with frame from Ghana, 2014

The information panel pointed out that bamboo is strong, versatile, cheap and fast-growing; all attributes that make the bikes ecological, sustainable, recyclable and energy-efficient to produce. Although bamboo bikes date back to 1894, these attributes make them perfect for answering today’s issues of global climate change, poverty and unemployment.

I want a bamboo bike.

smoothie making bikeI also want a bike like this. One where I can make myself a smoothie as I cycle along.

Or maybe I can install a coffee machine instead?

bike with sidecarThis push-bike comes with a motorbike-style sidecar attached.

I’m not sure I’d want to pedal a passenger around, but if I had a bike like this I’m sure I could convert the sidecar into an office or bedroom.

military dog bikeThis is a Swedish military bike from 1950. It was used by a dog-handler who would sit his dog on the little platform.

I’m thinking it would make a great table or desk.

orange trikeAnd then there was this one. An all-enclosed trike. It’s orange, so I wouldn’t change a thing.

The exhibition wasn’t all bedazzling bikes, but had a serious and informative side too.

This diagram shows how most road planners assign usage of the road systems. It contrasts it with a much more ideal way where bikes and pedestrians come first, rather than cars.

road use planningThe information panel pointed out that although bikes used to be seen as a means of transport for the less well-off and as a way of giving access to public spaces for all classes, they are now much more likely to be seen as a social signifier identifying the middle-classes. Encouraging a cycle culture that includes all classes should be a priority for every city.

Besides the bike exbibition there was also an exhibition on the design of buildings, but it was getting late by this time and I had to rush through it.

architecture museumI did learn how the use of space in our homes has changed over the decades. No-one really has a parlour anymore for example. Also kitchens, which used to be the heart of the home, shrank in size with the advent of technology in the 1950s – the future was seen to involve the mere reheating or rehydrating of food rather than actual cooking, and the kitchens reflected this, giving more space to leisure rooms instead.

I finally left the museum and made my way, with aching feet and a rumbling belly, back to the hostel. I’d had a whole day immersed in sculpture, art and architecture.

I was knackered.

But boy, was I feeling cultured.

 

Moderna Museet, Stockholm

Naked anglers, plates of spaghetti and men propping up a bar. Well, it is modern art.

I like art.

Modern art I either love or just don’t get.

As I wouldn’t want to miss out on the chance of seeing art I might love, I had to visit Stockholm’s Moderna Museet.

I went to the late-night opening after spending the whole day wandering around the sculptures at Millesgården and so was pretty tired and had already seen quite a lot of amazing art that day.

It probably wasn’t the best time to go, but I only had four days and wanted to make the most of them. I thought being tired and all arted-out might have swayed my opinion towards the negative end of the spectrum. But no, I got a new lease of life and really enjoyed the museum and the art and was really glad I’d made the effort rather than just going back to the hostel and lying on my bed with my Kindle and a cup of tea.

Carl Milles 'Wings'
Carl Milles, ‘Wings’ 1911

The first thing I saw, before I even got up to the museum was yet another Carl Milles sculpture. Good job I like them.

Once in the grounds of Moderna Museet I came across this installation.

art installation outside Moderna Museet, Stockholm
Alexander Calder, ‘The Four Elements’ 1938/1961

Calder is an American sculptor who lived from 1898 to 1976. The Four Elements was created as a giant metal sculpture (it stands about 10 metres tall) in 1961 from a model he’d originally made in 1938. The sculpture is motorised and turns slowly. I love bright blocks of bold colour so this was a  winning start for me.

The museum is on the island of Skeppsholmen which was formerly a naval base. The museum began its life in what had been the drill hall. In 1998 a new specially designed building was built to house the museum. This now adjoins the old drill hall which these days houses the architecture museum.

IMG_8229The modern new building is light and spacious. Although there were quite a lot of visitors, it never felt crowded. And there were plenty of benches I could sit on to rest my tired legs admire the art.

Moderna MuseetHere’s another nice bench to sit on. This one also has a good view of more than just the art.

The art really interested me, particularly an exhibition of Nils Dardel’s work, and below are photos of a few of my favourite pieces.

Trans-Siberian painting
Nils Dardel, ‘The Trans-Siberian Express’ 1918

In 1917 Dardel travelled through Russia after a visit to Japan. It was the time of the Revolution and his painting of the Trans-Siberian Express shows both the exterior of the train passing through the countryside and the interior with the carriages filled with soldiers.

This picture appealed to me both as a piece of art and because I’m interested in the Trans-Siberian Express and even have a journey aboard it listed as one of my 60 things to do before I’m 60.

Nils Dardel, The Bar painting
Nils Dardel, ‘The Bar’ 1920

This painting of men propping up a bar shows that some things never change.

Crime of Passion
Nils Dardel, ‘Crime of Passion’ 1921
Crime of Passion
Nils Dardel, ‘Crime of Passion’ 1921
Nils Dardel, Woman in Green Pyjamas Murdering a Man in Black
Nils Dardel, ‘Woman in Green Pyjamas Murdering a Man in Black’ 1918

The above three Nils Dardel paintings show how the same idea can be used multiple times. I could take a blogging lesson from this!

The Dying Dandy
Nils Dardel, ‘The Dying Dandy’ 1918
The Dying Dandy
Nils Dardel, ‘The Dying Dandy’ 1918

These two paintings of The Dying Dandy have subtle differences. I found it really interesting to see different versions of the same painting side-by-side like this.

The Angler
Nils Dardel, ‘The Angler’, 1931

There was something about this one that really drew me towards it (and no, not just because it’s a naked man).

There was a lot more to see than just the Nils Dardel exhibition, though that was my favourite part.

Moderna Museet

I didn’t really understand this part of the exhibtion.

Moderna MuseetNor this bit. Though I did sort of like the sheep.

spagetti painting
James Rosenquist, ‘I Love You with My Ford’ 1961

And I think the only reasons I liked this one are because I used to drive a Ford and one of my niece’s favourite foods is tinned spaghetti. So it reminded me of my first car and my niece. I’m really not sure how spaghetti fits in with the title though.

The spaghetti was making me hungry and it had been a long day. But as I still had a little bit of time left before the museum closed, I ignored my rumbling stomach and paid a quick visit to the adjoining architecture museum which was included with the price of my ticket.

That can be another post though.

 

Millesgården

The former home of Carl Milles is now a sculpture garden dedicated to his work.

Millesgården is fabulous. Especially on a hot, sunny day.

Millesgården
The Hand of God 1953

This was my first day in Stockholm after my travels ‘up north’ and I didn’t want to miss a moment of the sunshine by spending it indoors.

Millesgården

A metro from the hostel followed by a bus journey and a 10 minute walk brought me to the former home of sculptor Carl Milles and his wife Olga. The house and the beautiful garden were given to the people of Sweden in 1936 and now form a museum and stunning sculpture garden.

Millesgården
Europe and the Bull 1926

As Stockholm splashes itself across an archipelago, you’re never too far from water. Millesgården is no exception and the Baltic laps at the edges of the garden providing some lovely views.

MillesgårdenThe various parts of the garden have been designed to reflect different themes such as the Lower Terrace which was inspired by an Italian piazza (the Milleses spent many winters in Rome).

Millesgården
The Aganippe Fountain 1955

The house contains art and more sculpture.

Millesgården MillesgårdenA smaller, separate, house is known as ‘Anne’s House’. This was built in the 1950s when Carl and Olga returned from living in the USA. The house was lived in by Carl’s assistant, Anne. The house has been left as it was and the rooms can be viewed through glass panels.

MillesgårdenI spent pretty much the whole day wandering around and went completely overboard with the number of photos I took.

Millesgården
Spirit of Transportation 1952

Millesgården Millesgården Millesgården

Millesgården
The Dancing Girls 1917

Millesgården

Millesgården
Remus and Romulus

Millesgården’s website has a lot of information about the history of the house and garden and the stories behind the sculptures.

Nobel Museum, Stockholm

I sat on a Nobel Prize winner’s chair and ate his chocolate.

The founder of the Nobel Peace Prize was also the inventor of dynamite. I didn’t know this and found it ironic that the money for rewarding and promoting peace originates from something that blows things up.

This was just one of the interesting nuggets of information I picked up at the Nobel Museum.

Alfred Nobel lived from 1833 to 1896 and was a successful chemist, inventor, entrepeneur and businessman. Throughout his life he was able to amass quite a fortune. As he was also a pacifist, he left a lot of that fortune as a legacy to fund the prizes which are named after him.

The first prize was awarded in 1901 and since then almost 600 prizes have been awarded to honour outstanding achievements in the sciences, literature and the pursuit of peace.

Nobel medal
A Nobel Prize medal

All except the Peace Prize are awarded in Sweden (the Peace Prize is awarded in Norway) and so it is fitting that Stockholm has a museum dedicated to the life of Alfred Nobel and the winners of the Nobel Prize.

Nobel museumA monorail hangs from the ceiling and loops round the building. A constantly moving stream of cards each depicts a Nobel Prize winner. It seemed a really effective way to show just how many Nobel winners there have been.

Nobel prize winners info cards Nobel winners info cardsInteractive terminals allow visitors to access information about the prize from each decade.

interactive terminals

Side rooms contain displays about the prize and the inventions that have led to it being won.

Winners attend a banquet and as well as a nice dinner receive a medal and a million pounds (10,000,000SEK). I’d like to be at that dinner party!

The table setting for the banquet follows a set layout.

place setting for Nobel banquet Info on the Nobel banquetDinner is followed by chocolates wrapped in gold foil and embossed to look like the medals.

chocolate Nobel medalsTraditionally winners sign the underneath of their dining chair. Some of the chairs are displayed in the museum. Others are used as seating in the cafe. As I’m not likely to get an invite to the banquet any time soon, I had a coffee in the cafe instead.

chair signed by Nobel winnerSo at least I got to sit on a chair signed by a Nobel Prize winner. I didn’t know who it was, but the coffee was good.

And I bought some of the after dinner chocolates to take home.